Tight Travellers

By tighttravellers, May 2026

Right. Balabac. Let’s have a proper chat about it.

When folk ask about the Philippines, they talk about El Nido, Palawan, Boracay. Barely anyone mentions Balabac. That, right there, is both its biggest flaw and its greatest charm.

It’s about as remote as it gets: no tourist crowds, no souvenir shops on every corner, no Instagram influencers doing yoga on a pool villa terrace. What tha does get is the most unspoiled island experience we’ve ever had anywhere in the world. White sand, crystal-clear water, sea turtles that couldn’t care less about thy presence, and a peace so complete it makes thy shoulders drop about three inches.

We did Balabac over 4 days and 3 nights with Lagum Adventures, based out of Cakisigan Island in the far south of Palawan. Here’s the full honest account.

Getting to Balabac. Not Your Average Journey

First things first: getting to Balabac is an adventure in itself. It’s not a place easily accessible by a direct flight from Manchester, or anywhere, for that matter. Step one is flying into Puerto Princesa, the main city on Palawan. Step two is where things get interesting.

Lagum Adventures picked us up before sunrise in Puerto Princesa for the long drive down to the southernmost tip of Palawan. Think winding roads, the occasional pothole, and plenty of jungle views. It’s not the smoothest ride but it’s all part of the adventure. After around five hours (with one snack and toilet stop that felt suspiciously like a test of our bladder endurance), we arrived at the port in Buliluyan, where our boat was waiting.

The boat, a traditional bangka that looked charmingly rustic. By which we mean it didn’t scream luxury, but we were too busy gawping at the blindingly turquoise water to care. Life jackets on, dry bags secured, off we went. The boat ride across to Balabac takes around 2 hours, but the scenery makes it fly by. Tiny jungle-covered islands scattered across endless blue water, flying fish skimming the surface, and not a tourist boat in sight. We already felt a million miles from everything.

We stopped off at Patawan Island en route. White beach, blue sea, one bar, a volleyball net, and a toilet that we were reyt glad to find after the boat journey. We used our time here to get to grips with our drone and admired the island from above. Not a bad start.

Arriving at Cakisigan Island. Our Home for 3 Nights

Eventually, we reached our base: Cakisigan Island. Stepping off the boat onto pure white sand, we were welcomed with coconuts and big smiles from the island locals. There’s limited Wi-Fi (which surprised us pleasantly), one shop, and absolutely no air-con; but there is a hammock under a palm tree, the sound of waves lapping the shore, and the kind of peace that makes everything else feel very far away.

After settling into our simple beach tent (we did not pay the extra price for the hut, budget traveller instincts die hard), we spent the afternoon swimming in water so clear tha can see thy feet from ten metres down, exploring the beach, and trying to absorb the fact that we’d actually made it here. Dinner was fresh grilled fish, meat, rice, and vegetables eaten by lantern light with our feet in the sand.

We fell asleep to the sound of the ocean and a breeze drifting through the tent, which we really needed. And if tha’s worried about trouble sleeping in a warm beach tent, a full day of travel and the litre of Red Horse we bought from the island’s one and only shop really helped with that.

Day 2: Island Hopping, Sea Turtles and Stargazing

We woke up not because we’d set an alarm – what even is time in Balabac? But because the sun decided to pour golden light through our tent at about 6am. Not a bad way to start. After a simple but satisfying breakfast of fresh fruit, fried rice, and strong coffee, we packed our bags for a full day of island hopping.

First on the agenda: Onok Island, the crown jewel of Balabac. It’s privately owned and permission to visit is needed in advance. Thanks to Lagum Adventures for sorting that out.

We arrived to find a perfect circle of land surrounded by shallow turquoise water and vibrant reefs. Cue snorkelling session. Sea turtles? Check. They don’t seem bothered by visitors at all, just gliding past completely unfazed like they’ve been doing it for centuries. Giant clam? Yep, although a fair bit harder to spot. Crystal-clear visibility? Nothing like the UK shores, we can tell thee that much.

We had lunch on the island’s stilted wooden deck, with a breeze in our hair and 360-degree sea views that made us seriously consider asking how much it costs to just live there permanently. (A lot. The answer is a lot.)

The boat ride back were a bit lively. We even had to turn around and return to Onok Island before setting off again (the captain clearly needed a moment). We were fortunate enough to be sitting up top with him, but everyone else were getting thoroughly soaked. Small victories.

We wrapped up the day back at Cakisigan, salty, sun-kissed, and buzzing from everything we’d seen. Dinner was another seafood feast followed by some very low-energy stargazing: mostly lying flat on our backs trying to identify constellations and failing gloriously. One full day in and Balabac were already starting to feel like a dream we weren’t ready to wake up from.

Day 3: Mansalangan Sandbar, Punta Sebaring and a Sunset That Stopped Us in Our Tracks

By day three we’d fully surrendered to island time. Alarm clocks were a distant memory. We were rising with the sun, eating with the tide, and had genuinely lost track of what day it were. The sign of a successful escape.

After another breakfast on Cakisigan, we set off for more of Balabac’s hidden gems. First up: Mansalangan Sandbar – a long, curving stretch of white sand that appears in the middle of the sea like someone just forgot to finish building an island. It were absolutely surreal. There were so many starfish we had to watch every step.

Next stop: Punta Sebaring. Picture a long stretch of white beach and crystal-clear water. Stunning in every way; with two notable exceptions. Sand flies, which defeated our bug spray comprehensively, and one poor excuse for a toilet which we’ll say nowt more about except: pack your own supplies and thank us later.

Lunch was a beach picnic cooked by our boat crew – grilled fish, eggplant salad, and steamed crabs as fresh as they come. Eating with thy hands, sand between thy toes and the sea in front of thee is something we could definitely get used to.

The late afternoon brought one of those spontaneous wow moments tha doesn’t see coming. We anchored near a quiet stretch of water between two small islets and our guide casually said, “Want to swim here before sunset?” Minutes later we were floating in complete silence, the sea glowing orange and pink around us as the sun slipped behind the horizon. No boats. No buildings. No noise. Just the gentle sound of water and the occasional splash of a fish saying hello. One of those moments tha tries to describe to people when tha gets home and knows tha’s failing.

Back on Cakisigan that night, we sat around the dinner table with sandy feet, messy hair, and huge smiles. Already a bit sad knowing we’d be heading back to Puerto Princesa in the morning.

Day 4: One Last Swim and the Long Road Home

And just like that, it were our last morning on Cakisigan Island. Waking up to the sound of waves knowing we’d be saying goodbye were a bittersweet feeling. Somehow three nights here had felt like a week and a minute all at once. We’d gotten so used to barefoot living, cold bucket showers, and meals cooked over fire that it were hard to imagine going back to shoes, Wi-Fi, and traffic.

We squeezed in one last swim before breakfast, wading out into that warm, glassy water like we were trying to soak up every last bit of it. The island dogs trotted alongside us on the beach, and the staff, who by now felt like old friends, joked with us as they packed up the gear. It were quiet, peaceful, and honestly a bit emotional.

After breakfast, we loaded our bags back onto the bangka and started the journey home. The ride felt different this time. Less “where are we going?” and more “I cannot believe we’ve been here.” Everyone were a bit quieter, tired in the best way, just watching the islands pass by in the sun.

Then came the long van ride back from Buliluyan Port to Puerto Princesa. Still bumpy, still twisty, but this time we barely noticed. Too busy scrolling through cameras, swapping stories, and failing to stay awake. By the time we reached the city, our skin were sun-kissed (read: slightly crispy), our hair were sea-salted and wild, and our hearts were very, very full.

The Food: Fresh, Simple and Genuinely Brilliant

If tha’s a fan of fresh seafood, Balabac will make thee very happy. We’re talking fish so fresh it practically swims onto thy plate, and crab that tastes like it were caught minutes ago. The locals know how to grill a fish to perfection; no fancy sauces or complicated recipes, just simple fresh ingredients, a bit of seasoning, and plenty of rice. Every meal were eaten outdoors, usually with sand between our toes and the sea in view. Even the beach picnic on day three – grilled fish, eggplant salad and steamed crab cooked by the boat crew were one of the best meals of the whole Philippines trip.

Who We Booked With: Lagum Adventures

We booked our Balabac expedition through Lagum Adventures and they made the whole experience smooth and stress-free from start to finish. All logistics were covered: van transfers, boat rides, island accommodation, meals, and island hopping permits. All we had to focus on was enjoying it rather than stressing about the logistics of getting to one of the most remote islands in the Philippines.

The 4-day, 3-night package uses Cakisigan Island as a base, which were a great choice; comfortable enough to rest properly, remote enough to feel completely off-grid. The staff were brilliant throughout, the food were consistently good, and the itinerary covered all the main highlights of Balabac without feeling rushed.

Practical Information

Getting there: Fly into Puerto Princesa (Palawan) from Manila. Skyscanner is thy starting point for cheap flights. From Puerto Princesa, Lagum Adventures handles all onward transfers. Don’t try to arrange this independently unless tha has a lot of experience with remote island travel.

Before and after Balabac: Most people base themselves in Puerto Princesa for a night either side. We used Booking.com to find accommodation and found decent budget options. It would be useful to book the same accommodation rather side of the trip, ask if you can leave your big bags and only take what you need!

What to pack: Bug spray (and then more bug spray (the sand flies at Punta Sebaring are absolutely relentless), reef-safe suncream, a dry bag for the bangka, cash (there are no ATMs near Balabac), a headtorch for the evenings, and a very flexible attitude toward cold bucket showers.

Cost: The 4-day Lagum Adventures package is on the pricier side for the Philippines. It cost us £185 each for (January, 2025) but prices change, so check their website directly. Given the remoteness of the location, the all-inclusive nature of the package (transfers, accommodation, meals, boat trips, permits), and the calibre of the experience, it felt completely justified. This isn’t a budget backpacker destination but it’s a splurge worth saving up for.

Best time to visit: November to May during the dry season. We’d strongly advise avoiding monsoon season (June to October) as the sea crossing can become genuinely dangerous and many operators suspend trips.

Reyt or Shyte? Our Honest Verdict

Balabac is, without question, one of the most special places we’ve been anywhere in the world. Raw, remote, and real. No resorts, no crowds, no schedules. Just you, nature, and the kind of memories that sneak up on thee days later when tha’s stuck in traffic and suddenly missing the sound of the waves.

It’s not the easiest place to reach, and it’s not meant to be. That’s what makes it so special. The sea turtles, the Mansalangan Sandbar appearing from nowhere, the sunset swim between the islets, the lantern-lit dinners on the beach; every single bit of it were worth the five-hour van ride and the slightly terrifying bangka crossing.

The downsides? The sand flies at Punta Sebaring are genuinely brutal. The toilet situation at certain stops would make a Yorkshire farmer wince. And yes, the price is higher than most Philippines experiences. But for what tha gets in return? We’d go back in a heartbeat.

Verdict: Reyt. Unequivocally, absolutely, without a shadow of a doubt – reyt.

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